The Retinol Issue

Everything you're dying to know is under the paywall

Retinol gets a lot of attention and a lot of use, and personally, I think it needs to be recommended with a higher amount of education for the client or consumer than they’re currently getting (this is probably you). I will never forget having a consultation with someone using a prescription Retinoid alongside an over-the-counter Vitamin A serum, not realizing they were different forms of the same thing. Homegirl was doubling down on retinoids every night. Honey, no!

Serums are arguably the most complex skincare product to formulate. It's why tiny brands, don't always have them (sometimes they have oils that they call serums, this is not the same), they don't have a cosmetic chemist on board! They're complex because often, the ingredients and molecules used can be very unstable. The right serum can have a profound effect on one's skin health or the healing of a condition. The wrong one can cause a new fun problem to contend with :)

So let's talk about Retinoids. In this issue you’ll find:

-The difference between the many different forms of Retinoids!
-The difference between Pro-Vitamin A and actual Vitamin A!
-What it’s actually doing on the skin!
-What it’s doing inside our bodies when we consume it in our food!
-How to use it!
-My thoughts on Bakuchiol!
-Answers to questions sent in!

---

When we talk about Retinol or Retinoids, we are just talking about Vitamin A in its various forms or derivatives. Some are active, some are inactive, some are natural, and some are synthetic - it all gets very confusing quickly because they are not all equal in quality and strength!

The synthetic, pharmaceutical Retinoids and/or retinoid derivatives are those from a dermatologist or doctor. You need a prescription for these, they are not on store shelves. This is what things like: Tretinoin, Adapalene, Differin, and Retin-A are. These are often prescribed and used for moderate to severe acne and/or aging concerns. This is typically what is being used or imagined when folks are worried about the stronger effects of Retinoids being dry, flaky, and sensitized skin. They picture the clinical packaging, containing a very unsexy cream. When I’m recommending to my friends and clients a retinol product, I am literally never referring to these.

The many forms of Retinoids that you see on store shelves and webshops that have various, slightly different names are still different forms of Vitamin A. They are essentially the same compound at different points of conversion. Our body does this same conversion when we consume Vitamin A in our food. Here's a visual for more clarity: